How To Fit Laminate Kitchen Worktops

How To Fit Laminate Kitchen Worktops

So the laminate kitchen worktops are in place with an even overhang and you have applied masking tape along the depth to be scribed.

You must now open up the compasses pencil and point to match the widest gap between the kitchen worktops and wall. Transfer this to the worktops by running the compass along the wall keeping it parallel thus leaving a pencil line on the masking tape. You are now left with the shape of the wall transferred to the worktop and this should be cut with a jigsaw unless it is so minimal that a plane will suffice.

Of course all the above can be disregarded if your walls are fairly straight and flush but in my experience this is a rarity and your own judgement will tell you whether the gap left is acceptable or not. My own yardstick for a wall to worktop maximum gap would be no greater than 3mm.

Cutting kitchen worktops
To cut the kitchen worktops with a jigsaw uses a downstroke blade. This will prevent any unsightly spelches of the laminate whilst cutting.

After cutting along the line, remove the masking tape, butt the kitchen worktops up to the same wall, ensure the overhang is even along its length and repeat the process along the back edge. The connecting worktop to this one will form the male side of the worktop mitre and, again cutting this 50mm overlength, repeat the above process making sure the worktop is in its relevant position. Repeat the process again for the final worktop.

You can now take a well-deserved break – call the family in to view your complex achievement – appropriate technical jargon at this stage is useful, especially the old DIY classic “the undulating wall finish was my biggest obstacle but I’ve overcome it darling, somehow” (accompany this with several puffs of exhaustion). This should win you a second cuppa.

How to cut joints
Now its time to cut the kitchen worktops joints and this must always be carried out in a left to right motion commencing at the postformed front edge of the kitchen worktops. This will render turning the worktop upside down for certain joints but it is an extremely important point to remember.

Assuming the configuration is a three sided or u-shaped kitchen we will start with the left hand worktops that run full cabinet length up to the returning wall. This will have a female mitre cut into it in order to accept the male mitre of the connecting worktop. All the references to male and female might be a little confusing but they are so called for reasons that may become apparent once cut, and if this still remains confusing ask mummy or daddy!

Kitchen Worktops templates are now widely available for various widths and are supplied with detailed instructions for use. Location pins are provided and these are placed in the relevant holes for the cutting of male or female mitres. Set the pins for a female mitre, place template on the face edge and clamp firmly to the worktop.

A relevant sized collet for use as a guide in the worktop jig, usually 30mm diameter, must be fitted to your router before cutting into the top. Set the router to approximately cut 10mm depth for each pass and allow the router to cut into the top without forcing the machine.

Once complete you must now cut the bolts in a relevant and accessible position on the underside of the worktop. The template for the bolts is again located with pins on the worktop jig. Set the depth to accept the bolts and using two cuts router out the worktop.