Cooker Hoods are an incredible help for removing cooking smells, vapours, and condensation and are designed for quiet operation. As a general rule you will mainly use the lower and mid cooker hoods speeds during normal cooking and resorting to maximum speed when dealing with emergencies – such as burning the toast. It is sometimes necessary for hoods to be set at maximum speed when using all burners or when griddling meats as this can create excessive vapours. We include the cooker hoods noise levels and extraction performance for each model to assist you when making comparisons between makes. Cooker hood performance is extremely important and is normally measured in cubic metres per hour.
Our cooker hoods feature hotplate illumination and metal grease filters that can be washed by hand or in a dishwasher. The metal grease filters do not need to be replaced as they are designed to last the life of the hood.
Cooker Hoods Ducted Out or Recycling
It is always preferable to use hoods ducted to the outside wall. Air is drawn into the hood, fats are trapped by the grease filters. Odours, fumes and condensation are then expelled to the outside. Some cooker hoods are designed exclusively for Ducting Out.
On certain cooker hoods you can choose to install the hood as a ducted or recycling model – we would only recommend that a hood is used as a recycling model if it is impossible to duct out. When using a cooker hood as a recycling model, air is drawn into the hood, fats are trapped by the grease filters, the air then passes through charcoal filters to remove cooking odours, the purified air is then passed back into the kitchen.
It is realistic to assume that using these applicances on recycle mode will circulate at least 30% less air than by ducting out – this is because the charcoal filters will restrict the flow of air. Charcoal filters are an optional extra and will require replacing at approximately six month intervals more frequently if in regular use.
Ducted Hoods in the same room as a Fossil-fuel Burning Appliance
The following is a requirement of UK cooker hood legislation and is based in the interests of your safety. If the room where ducted a cooker hood is to be installed also contains a fossil fuel burning appliance such as a boiler, then its flue must be of the room sealed or balanced flue type.
Ducted hoods are not suitable for use in a room where any open flue is in use. (This includes boilers, coal fires, wood burning stoves, gas fires etc) therefore if you have an open flue fossil fuel burning appliance in your kitchen, you are automatically compelled to select a hood that is capable of working on recycling modes.
Integrated Cooker Hoods
Having left the appropriate gap for the extractor and installed the wall outlet, if applicable, secure the brackets to the rear wall and hang the extractor. Remove the pivotal door-fixing frame and screw the extractor to the adjacent cabinets. Fit the door to the fixing frame using the screws provided. This is made easier by using a template if provided. Make the vent connection to the exhaust outlet of the cooker hoods and make the electrical connection in the accessible yet hidden space at the rear top of the extractor. Having left the appropriate gap and installed the cooker hoods wall outlet, if applicable, secure the brackets to the rear wall and hang the cooker hoods. Remove the pivotal door-fixing frame and screw the extractor to the adjacent cabinets. Fit the door to the fixing frame using the screws provided. This is made easier by using a template if provided. Make the vent connection to the exhaust outlet of the appliance and make the electrical connection in the accessible yet hidden space at the rear top of cooker hoods .
A popular choice in contemporary kitchens are chimney style hoods and it is imperative to ensure alignment and level for installation. To achieve the correct finish, mark the centre line of the hob on the rear wall and continue this line up to the ceiling. Use this line as a reference point for fixing the brackets above the extractor. Ensure that the extractor is sited the correct and regulatory distance above the hob and transfer the template measurements to the wall using the line as reference. All ventilation connections should be made behind the flue and may be possible above the ceiling dependent on the joist direction.
After installing the cooker hood and flue, place the telescopic two-part chimney on top. Slide the chimney up to the ceiling and fix to the previously installed bracket. Electrical connection for chimney hoods should be made via a fused outlet in an accessible position above the worktop. The feed from this should terminate behind the flue and connection to the extractor can be made via a junction box of appropriate size.
The cut-out for the extractor is best made prior to installing the canopy and electrical and flue connections should all be made within the canopy. Canopies fitted between units are easier installed by fixing a temporary batten across the top. Lift the canopy above the neighbouring units and slowly bring down to rest on them. This will ensure the unit will remain level with the adjoining units before fixing. Fixing of the furniture canopy can be made within the cut-out by drilling four holes to each gable and fixing with appropriately sized screws. Install the extractor into the cut out after making electrical and flue connections.
Before installing an island cooker hood, the ceiling to which it will be fitted may require extra timber, between or adjacent to the existing joists. Adequate fixing is imperative to carry the weight of Island cooker hoods. When you have determined the position of your extractor, the flue, if the joists allow, should be fed through to the nearest outside wall. The fixing frame should be fitted to the ceiling with the screws supplied. The extractor will then require fitting. Final levelling using the adjustable bolts can now be done before tightening. Again, electrical connections can be made within the flue via a fused spur fitted to the wall above worktop height. Finally, the flue, which is in two parts, can be fitted and screwed to the frame with the fixings supplied.
Well apart from the toaster, blender and sandwich maker, I think that covers most appliances in the kitchen. All that’s left once they’re fitted is to cook, cool and wash in them. If like me, however, you’re that cook that spoils the broth, stick to the washing.
Advanced Sensor Control hoods are fitted with a sensor which detects steam, vapours, smoke and odours generated by the cooking process. This makes them fully automatic and no manual intervention is required. When the sensor detects the vapours etc, cooker hoods automatically switch on to the first speed. Every 10 seconds an internal microprocessor monitors the data for a further few minutes to ensure all residual odours have been eliminated before cooker hoods switch itself off.
Further benefits include:
The cooker hood’s sensor will detect an abnormal presence of gas – a great safety feature.
Cooker hoods can be manually operated and used as a traditional hood if you so desire. The hood can be changed from ASC system to manual operation at the touch of a button.
Positioning cooker hoods
A cooker hood is best planned to be sited onto an outside wall in the kitchen if this is at all possible. By doing this you will minimise the length of the ducting and maximise the performance.
Cooker Hoods Ducting
General guidelines: All our cooker hoods have high performance extraction rates, therefore using the correct size ducting is of paramount importance. The majority have outlets to accept 150mm ducting. Do not be tempted to use reducers and fit 125mm or 100mm ducting as this will dramatically reduce performance and increase noise levels. Do not use concertina type expanding 150mm ducting.
When planning your ducting run try to keep the number of bends to a minimum as this will also help maximise the hood’s performance. We suggest that you always utilise Rigid Circular Ducting or Mega Duct to optimise performance.
Note that any ducting used must not be connected to any existing ventilation or flue system that is being used for any other purpose.
Cooker Hoods over BBQ’s, Griddles etc
If you intend to use an extractor over a BBQ or griddle then you must duct out. We strongly recommend that any cooker with a BBQ is always sited on an outside wall so as to minimise the ducting run and maximise the hood performance.
Height above Hotplates
Ideally a cooker hood should be positioned between 650mm to 750mm above the hotplate. Note that the chimney hood must not be positioned less than 650mm. If you are using a back panel you will find the height pre-determined at 660mm.
Chimney Cooker Hoods – Telescopic Flues
All the wall mounted chimney hoods and corner chimney hoods have telescopic flues, which adjust to suit most room heights. The telescopic flue is made up of a lower and upper section. The lower section houses the motor, the upper section conceals the ducting and is open at the rear to allow turning the ducting through 90 degrees. Alternatively the ducting can be run out the top of the upper section and through the ceiling.
Other wall mounted chimney hoods have the motor in the base section and the telescopic flue hides the ducting. The flue is again open at the rear so that ducting can be run out through the rear wall or run out the top through the ceiling.
Before ordering a hood, measure your ceiling height. Double check that everything will fit or ask your installer to check sizes on your behalf.
Island Cooker Hoods
When deciding on an island cooker hood, there are several considerations to make. Ensure that the ceiling is sound and that it has adequate strength to accept the weight of the hood. The second point is to consider the route for the ducting and if your ceiling has joists which direction do they run. It is obviously not possible to run the ducting in the opposite direction to the joists. Check the height of your joists as these are often 5″ so Mega Duct may be your ideal solution.
These hoods are designed for fitting into an aperture of a canopy housing which can be of metal or cabinetry construction such as an over mantle arrangement. Sometime a canopy is an ideal solution for positioning above a range that is sited in a disused chimney breast. If you are having a canopy housing constructed, it will be beneficial to incorporate an encatchment area into the underside of the housing – this would be a recess to hold and contain fumes etc before the canopy motor extracts these away. If the underside of the canopy housing was totally flat, you can run the added risk of fumes etc spilling around the front and sides of the canopy housing. If the canopy housing is constructed from inflammable materials it must be a minimum of 650mm above the hotplate.